Beijing Day 2 – Church, Tiananmen Square, Forbidden Palace, and Acrobatics show

Sunday, July 27

Church, Tiananmen, Forbidden Palace, Acrobatics show

wpid-IMG1145.jpgSunday had a full itinerary! We woke up ready to go – here we were in China, and we were ready to see what this ancient city had to offer.

We actually started off our vacation by going to church. I thought it would be interesting to see church in China. For some background information, Christianity is legal in China, in a sense. All churches have to be registered with the communist party under the “Three Self” movement. Since communism builds success and stability on ideological unity, dissenting philosophies are dangerous to communism. Christianity, which demands allegiance to God before allegiance to worldly leaders, is particularly dangerous to the party. Therefore, the party carefully selects the leaders of all the major faiths in an attempt to maintain some ideological control. As a result, of course, the Protestant principles of sola scriptura, sola Christos, and sola fides may be questionable in these registered churches. There are estimated between 3-5 underground house churches for every registered Three-Self church in China, so the number of Christians in China is unknown. For a succinct overview, you can check out some statistics here

For all of that, the church we visited was fairly… normal. We were given headphones for translation and seated in a special “foreigner’s section” in the back. I recognized the hymns, and the service followed a traditional Presbyterian order. The prayers acknowledged Jesus Christ, Lord and Savior, and the message was quite evangelical. I noticed most of the Chinese in my line of sight had their own Chinese Bibles. The pastor was a woman (which seems typical in China – I’m not sure how much of that can be attributed to the Three-Self doctrines and/or the strong role women seem to play in leading the home, businesses, and families). People were friendly, but no one seemed particularly interested in talking to us, so we left pretty soon after the service. My first-hand view of Christianity in China is consequentially vague (I would love to visit a house church! But how does one find one? ;P). Yet I was encouraged that regardless of how the government attempts to control and use Christianity for its own ends, the gospel is being preached. The Word of God goes forth, and it will not return void. And the government cannot anticipate, control, or contain God’s Spirit in people.

Speaking of government control…

What’s the first thing to come to your mind when you think about Beijing? The Great Wall? Oh, well, you’ll have to skip to tomorrow (Monday) to see that ;). Of course, Tiananmen Square!  (Not what you thought of? Leave a comment! I’d be interested to hear what you thought of when you think “China”). We’d been in China for 24-hours and were eager to see the sights. Tiananmen was about a mile from our hostel, and we walked there – starving as usual, because we get so caught up in seeing and doing that we often neglect eating and sleeping on our vacations. We did find some steamed dumpling along the way, which were stuffed with olive oil, herbs, pickled substances, and meat – absolutely delicious.

We had a little bit of difficulty actually finding the square, simply because it’s not marked. There are no tourist signs directing you to Tiananmen Square, and it’s not listed as a destination on the handy tourist maps. According to the government, Tiananmen is nothing more than a large public square in the middle of the museums and official buildings – comparable to the National Mall in DC. The massacre is sort of a rumor in China – officially it didn’t happen, the Chinese people are forbidden to speak of it, and very few know the whole story even if they suspect something. Therefore, we stood right across the street and yet missed it at first as “the” Tiananmen Square.

Tiananmen as seen from the Forbidden City

Tiananmen as seen from the Forbidden City

It is quite large – officially the 4th largest public square in the world. The square itself is unremarkable, but with a little imagination I could see it all. The square turned into a mini-city, full of tents and college students, a million people packed in at its height, all hoping for change. The student leaders Chai Ling and Li Lu shouting in megaphones, challenging the government leaders, rallying the students and hoping against hope. Then the tanks, which 25 years ago rolled down these streets and brutally dispersed the crowds. The manhunt and slaughter that occurred in the side streets, from which we will never know the true death toll. And yet the square sits there, cars and buses go to and fro, and no sign, monument or placard tells what happened there.


Tiananmen Square


Right across from the square is Tiananmen gate, which means “Heavenly Peace” and from which the square derives its name. On the gate hangs a huge statue of Mao, and is the only entrance into the Forbidden City. The Forbidden City was built in 1420 (read: 72 years before Columbus discovered America). It was the seat of power for the Ming and Qing dynasties, two of the most influential dynasties for present-day China. The entrance was restricted to the king and his retinue all the way up to the last emperor Puyi in the 1920’s. The palace complex is huge, it may be the largest palace in China. I would bet the entire National Mall would fit inside. Walking through the western gate (the one reserved for the king) and opening onto the sprawling complex was an awesome sight. The roofs gleam with gold, while the pillars are red and the ceilings and columns are painted with blue and green designs. The animals from the Chinese zodiac show up in statues and on rooftops, while huge gold-guilded vats dot the complex as early fire-prevention methods. I have no idea how many buildings were in the complex, and we only saw a fraction of the grounds and gardens. Touring the Forbidden City could easily consume and day and a half, and we had about an hour and a half’s worth of energy to give to it. From my taste of the city, I can easily imagine the Emperor receiving dignitaries and holding Lunar festivals, the Empress sweeping along the paths in her silk, or Mulan warning of the Hun’s attacks ;).


Over the entrance to the city hangs a huge painting of Mao Zedong, and guards line the bridge leading into it.


Some of the details of architecture


The lovely Becca


The number of figures on the roofs signified the importance of the building

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The gardens


We spice up our visits with selfies ;)


To finish out the day, we attended an acrobatics show. There was a tightrope walk and contortionist, mat acrobatics/jumps/flips, pole climbing, a juggler, and somehow 12 woman all managed to balance on a single bicycle. I *might* have filmed some of it using my sneaky go pro.

We had a dinner of noodles – again, delicious. I have always strongly disliked the version of Chinese food I’ve encoutered in America. I.E., I hate Panda Express. But everything I ate in China was delicious! Beijing fare seems to lack the smothering of sauce, although Hong Kong food was comparable to the orange chicken or sweet-and-sour pork you may find. At any rate, we were famished once more and the spicy beef noodles were delicious. This was no Korean ramyen ;).

wpid-PhotoGrid_1408876667016.jpgFinally, we made it back to our adorable hostel room. We had to get our rest. We had a big day tomorrow – a great day.

Bejing: Day 1- Arrival, Hot Pot, and the Lake District

Saturday, July 26, 2014

Once upon a time, there were two girls who traveled to an ancient city in the east called Beijing. They rose with the dawn, bleary-eyed, but excited for the adventures to come. Little did they know what evils would arise to bar their way to this exotic land in the east. They boarded the Great Sliver Train and were transported to the airport where they knew a great bird would carry them to their destination. Alas! With dismay they discovered that their great bird would leave from the other airport of international travel. They sped toward the line of taxi waiting to take them there, and one quickly conveyed them thither, but evil chance dogged their steps there as well, for the driver desired gain over honesty and emptied their pockets of too great a sum. Yet, they were thankful to have arrived in time to enter and prepared to board the winged creature that awaited them with twenty minutes to spare. Only one obstacle remained: they must obtain fund for their journey. How they despaired to find that there were not ATMs within the secured area! Hope waned, but they prayed, and they discovered a way to leave the area (escorted by an attendant of the winged creature). One of the fair-skinned beauties dashed to the ATM, obtained the necessary funds, and returned in time to board. Finally, the girls were soaring towards the ancient city of Beijing (and the rest of the trip went much more smoothly).

So, yes, it was quite the adventure leaving Korea (although it wasn’t quite as dramatic as in the “tale” above ;D ) Our time in China and leaving China went very smoothly; leaving Korea was the most difficult part of the entire trip.  We are very thankful for God’s help and provision. On the plane Carissa and I watched The Lego Movie and discovered a great theme song for our trip called “Everything is Awesome.” Every time something unfortunate or not-so-great happened we would smile and sing, “Everything is awesooomme!” Check out the video to see what we mean:

Once we arrived in Beijing we got food and drinks at the airport Starbucks and planned out next adventure: getting to the hostel. We hoped it would not be as adventurous as getting out of Korea. After deciding to take the subway we walked to the ticket window (passing a small group of Red Guards marching in sync) and found the blinds closed and a small sign that said, “Service has been suspended.” We weren’t sure what that meant (although it felt very “communist China.”), so we wandered down the escalators, found tickets downstairs, and boarded our train. We found our hostel with little trouble. It is called Sitting on the City Walls and is located in a historic hutong, the old alleyways that crisscross the center of Beijing, just past a small exercise park where many of the locals exercise on the equipment there and old men play ping pong and chess.


Our hostel room, nestled within the walls and deep in the Chinese Hutongs. Our door opens straight into the garden courtyard.

Many locals still live in the hutongs, and as we wandered to and from our hostel each day we often saw laundry hung up and elderly people sitting on stools and playing cards.  The doors that lined the hutongs were often open, revealing people’s courtyards beyond, cluttered with all manner of things. Down other hutongs we explored throughout our trip were food vendors selling delicious dumplings, pastries, and steamed buns. One day we followed a couple of hutongs to a market where everything from clothing to kitchen utensils to fruits and vegetables were being sold. We were also able to see more of the poverty that many Chinese people live in. Beyond the door to our hostel lay a lovely courtyard with a green plants, a fountain, computers, modern plumbing. Beyond the open doors along the hutong lay dirt and apparent squalor and squat toilets. It was a sharp contrast.

The hutongs are definitely a must see, however, for a visitor to Beijing. Staying in the hutongs gave wonderful glimpses into local life- people riding bicycles, women playing card games in the gathering dusk, children playing. Exploring the hutongs was often fun and interesting, and our hostel’s location made us feel like we were living among the local people. Although we were only in the hutongs for short periods, we were able to see more of how local Chinese live than staying at a hotel would provide. It was a great experience!

We had a lovely private room and bathroom located just off of the courtyard. The staff spoke excellent English and were extremely helpful. They gave us a map, itinerary suggestions, and a list of attractions in both English and Chinese (important for taxis) and how to get there by public transportation. They also were able to arrange tours and shows and help us find the things we wanted to see in Beijing. In Bejing, hostels are definitely the way to go.

After settling into our hostel we went to a hot pot restaurant. We chose different meats and vegetables and added them to boiling pots of water. Our waitress did not speak any English and we did not have any idea what to order or what we were supposed to do, but with hand gestures and lots of smiles we ordered and cooked the food the correct way.


All smiles


Stick all the delicious dishes into the golden pot of boiling, seasoned water, and voila! Hotpot stew.


Lanterns, day and night

Next, we took a short walk to the Houhai and Xihai lake districts. This was a lovely area with a long, narrow lake that stretched and curved through this part of the city. The shores of the lake were lined with restaurants, karaoke bars, shops, rickshaw drivers with patrons, other drivers offering rides to walking tourists, and street vendors selling flowers, popsicles, toys, and balloons. Boats floated lazily on the water, many painted in an ornate Chinese style, some shaped like yellow rubber duckies (we think because Peking Duck is a famous food in Beijing) amid the lily pads. Lotus plants with wide leaves and beautiful pink flowers grew in the water near the banks in wide swatches. Carissa and I had a pleasant afternoon walking along the lake-side path, dodging rickshaws and bicycles, and watching the locals swim in the lake.


Lotus on the lake





Bright red doors an tiled roofs

One of the best parts about our lake visit was discovering a fantastic Starbucks. It was located in a traditional style building, ornately painted, with “Starbucks” written in Chinese characters. It was pretty exciting. Definitely the coolest Starbucks seen yet in our travels.


Starbucks in hanja

We visited this lake district again later in the week, this time in the evening. The lights of the restaurants and bars glimmered on the lake. The music and voices live performances and karaoke singers mingled and floated across the lake from the bars and cafes lining the lake, mingling with the voices of the crowds that had come to enjoy the lake in the evening.


The lakes transformed at night

 From the more relaxed and peaceful stroll in the afternoon to the fun and energetic atmosphere in the evening, the Houhai area was one of our favorite places in Beijing.


End of the day adventures: food markets…


…and cool buildings.



Anyeong haseyo everyone! Or, more appropriately for this post, konichiwa! Carissa here. Although this has been almost a month in the making, this is our recap of our recent trip to Osaka and Kyoto, Japan. The ever-amazing Rebecca Hobbs has wonderfully narrated this adventure – I butt in with italics wherever I can cause the most mischief ;). But hey, I did the pictures and captions!

Our trip started with a delayed flight – no big deal, although we got into Japan too late to catch a train to the city. We had planned to spend the night in a capsule hotel, but had to sleep in the airport instead. It wasn’t comfortable. Really. At all. Although Becca did get flirted with by a guy from Taipei who offered her green tea kitkats around 4am… but I’ll let Becca tell the story now ;).

After spending a mostly sleepless night (at least for me) in the Kansai International Airport in Osaka, we took an early train to Kyoto. An hour and a half later we arrived and began our temple sightseeing.


Ready to go!

My favorite temple we visited was the Silver Pavilion. The temple itself is not as impressive as the Gold Pavilion, but its zen gardens were stunning. I had enjoyed the gardens and grounds at the other temples immensely – mountains and trees and ferns, still and quiet (all of which I have missed greatly while living in Seoul)- but the zen garden and the temple grounds here were even more beautiful than the others. Near the temple there were zen sand rakings and sculptures interspersed between vibrant flowers and plants. I had never seen a zen garden before, and the straight lines and cones of sand they had created there were unique and very Japan (at least in my mind :) ). A path led up a small hill, winding through lush, green forest with stunning flowers. I often caught my breath in wonder as I walked the dirt path, surrounded by vividly green trees and thick ferns, spotting unique flowers I had never seen. There were colorful hydrangeas in blue and purple, as well, and beautiful views of the temple and zen garden below. It was quiet and peaceful. The garden smelled of rich soil, lush vegetation, and clean air. It was beautiful. This temple and its gardens are certainly one of my favorite memories of my time in Kyoto.



The Golden Palacewpid-IMG658-1.jpg


Bamboo forest

Speaking of visiting temples, one thing I didn’t expect, but was happy to see, were the occasional people dressed in kimonos and men’s traditional Japanese clothing. At nearly every temple we saw one or two Japanese men or women dressed in traditional clothing. I am not sure why they were, but it was fun to see! It felt like such a cultural experience. It was also an experience trying to casually and secretly snap pictures of them because they looked so cool…

Or in my case, not-so-casually snapping pics. I may have accidentally stepped on someone getting this one. ~Carissa

Or in my case, not-so-casually snapping pics. I may have accidentally stepped on someone getting this one. ~Carissa

After visiting many temples we walked along the Path of Philosophy towards our hostel. This path runs though a pleasant residential area with traditional houses with walled gardens on one side and a narrow canal on the other. Unfortunately, we could not muster a philosophical discussion while strolling along this path. We did enjoy the peaceful walk, however. :)


Philosopher’s Path

After we left the path, and were still making our way to our hostel, we discovered a magnificent temple gate just off of our path. It was massive. It had thick columns of dark wood and multiple gates, tall, imposing and six inches thick with wide strips of iron- all set in a forest with vivid and lush green trees. We were too late in the day to climb to the top, but we did snap a couple of good pictures.                            wpid-IMG698.jpg

Hey everyone – Carissa here. So let me briefly recap what our last 24-hours had looked like: red-eye flight into Osaka, minimal sleep on a shared airport bench, and a full day of temple-hopping with our luggage on our backs. It was fantastic. But… I wanted a shower. And we were lost. 

Never fear! The Japanese people we interacted with were incredibly nice. Our taxi driver went to extra effort to translate our directions into Japanese and make sure to get us to the right hostel. After sleeping in the airport, a bed felt luxurious (to me)

After resting, we went out to the Gion district / downtown area. We walked along this narrow food-alley packed with restaurants and finally picked one. After removing our shoes, we were seated in our own private wooden booth, where we ordered a ten-course Japanese meal. Yep, TEN courses, all authentic. I’m not sure I can remember them all, but there was sushi (not bad!), sashimi (whole fish), different soups and noodles. 

The next day we walked in the rain to a temple near our hostel. We wandered to one of the buildings in the temple area and saw people taking off their shoes, placing them in a bag, and walking down stairs underground. We thought we would check it out too. A man at the entrance asked us what language we spoke and then handed us a sign in English that explained that you could go underground and touch a gravestone of some important person, carrying out one wish. The sign warned us to constantly hold on to the handrail and that the only light would be on the tomb itself. Carissa and I both skimmed the information, not truly taking in the significance of what it said. We paid our 100 yen, took off our shoes, and descended; no big deal.

I have never been in such darkness. I could not see my own hand in front of my face, let alone Carissa in front of me. I shuffled slowly on the downward path that waswpid-IMG788.jpg taking me under the earth, then understanding the significance of the information on the sign we read- like don’t let go of the hand rail. After a few minutes I turned a corner and saw the gravestone. The lighting was eerie; it pooled around the gravestone alone, illuminating nothing else. I touched the stone (I am saving my one wish for something important ;) ), ascended stairs, and emerged into the blessed light. It was one of the fun, surprising, random things that happen on adventures and give real-life meaning to phrases like “as dark as a tomb”.

After our tomb-walk, we entered the actual temple. It is nestled up into a small mountain, surrounded with trees and ferns in vivid green. A large porch extends over a cliff. Inside the temple was art and furniture pieces of dark wood and gilded with gold. On the porch, there was a large iron pot, smoking with incense, as people gathered around and placed the incense sticks on top of the burning coals. wpid-IMG721.jpgEven though it saddens me to see all those people following a religion that will not save them, it was a surreal moment. In that moment it struck me that I was in Japan, at an ancient mountain temple, immersed in Asian culture. God is good to give me an opportunity to see His world and the unique people and places He created.

After visiting the temple, we walked back towards our hostel, stopping in shops along the way. The most interesting find: a Samurai sword ear pick (not purchased). We stopped at shop with beautiful fans, and I couldn’t resist buying one of them. One caught my eye right away. It had light colored wood, lovely white paper, with a subtle tree branch and blossom patter in white, and three red butterflies. Definitely a souvenir to remember Japan by. Carissa and I spent a good twenty minutes wandering around the shop, amidst such beautiful things, with the rain drizzling outside and two kind Japanese ladies from the shop occasionally showing us fans. We also stopped at a restaurant for lunch and had soup with green tea noodles (Kyoto is known for its green tea) (I had maccha [green tea] every chance I got – ice cream, noodles, tea, kitkats… :D :D) and an ice cream dessert with green tea ice cream, jello-like cubes, and rice cakes. The soup was my favorite.

In the afternoon we headed to the Shinto Shrine. The shrine is famous for the thousand or more orange gates with black accents on the base and top, and Chinese writing along each column, that line a pathway that climbs to the top of a mountain and back down to the temple. The gates were tall and for long stretches they sat one after another, only about 6 inches apart. We climbed step after step on the path, weaving our way up and down, through a beautiful forest vibrantly green and dripping with water from the heavy rain that fell minutes before. There were others climbing the path as well, but at times Carissa and I were the only ones walking through those gates, surrounded by a peaceful forest. It was wonderful, and both my soul and my imagination were refreshed.


Entrance to the Fushimi-Inari Shinto Shrine

1000 gates really means 1000 gates!

1000 gates really means 1000 gates!

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On the way down the path led us near a shop where a man was selling small replicas of the gate and would write on them in Chinese for you. Carissa and I each got one with our name and country written on one column, the date written on the other, and “hope” written on the top beam. It is a fantastic souvenir that will remind me both of the great time I had in Kyoto and to pray for the Japanese people.

wpid-IMG856.jpgThe next day we took an early train back to Osaka. Our flight wasn’t until the evening so we decided to spend the morning and afternoon exploring a little bit of Osaka. Our first stop was Osaka Castle. It is a beautiful, Asian-style castle with at least 6 stories, surrounded by high walls and a moat.It was great! We walked along the moat for a short time, then walked over a bridge and wound our way up a path to the castle. There were beautiful views of the Osaka skyline from the castle grounds. There was a museum inside the castle, and the best part, for me, was trying on Samurai costumes. I tried on the tallest helmet; it had black spikes extending a foot and a half into the air. It was plastic, but it was heavy! Samurai warriors must have had strong neck muscles. Here’s a great picture of Carissa and I:

Rebecca, the fierce warrior!

Rebecca, the fierce warrior!


So this guy had this hawk… and he let me hold it. It was pretty exciting :D


Castle selfie ;)

Castle selfie ;)

It's a moat!

It’s a moat!

A castle, a moat, and the Osaka skyline

A castle, a moat, and the Osaka skyline

Chillin' by the moat

Chillin’ by the moat

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After visiting the castle we ate some traditional Osaka street food- Tokoyaki which is a doughy ball with a flavorful sauce and a small bite of octopus inside (it was actually really good!) and a type of Japanese pancake with vegetables inside.

By the way - our takoyaki was ordered via a vending machine, from which we received a ticket to take to the food truck.

By the way – our takoyaki was ordered via a vending machine, from which we received a ticket to take to the food truck.

On our way to the subway, we walked through the beginnings of a music festival. Bands were starting to play, freestyle dancers were busting their moves and throngs of brightly-clad, cutsey, overly-stylized asian-stereotypical fans were gathering. A group of guys gathered around the girl band, while girls thronged at the boy band. Of course, everyone had synchronized dance moves. The majority of the crowd was under-30, but there was definitely a few 70-year-old grandpas pumping their fists.

Da boys.

Da boys.

Just look at his perfectly-coordinated shoelaces!

Just look at his perfectly-coordinated shoelaces!

We then headed off to see the Universal Studies City Walk, Osaka. It was fun visiting the unique shops (like those with Spiderman ramen :D ). We also had some delicious nachos at the Hard Rock Cafe, where I saw the Thriller music video for the first time (I couldn’t believe how long it was! There were also some pretty cool, monster-dancing moves ).

Citywalk Hollywood holds great memories for me, so it was really fun to see Osaka. It’s very similar – they have King Kong, HardRock cafe, the CityWalk sign. The food choices are different, and there aren’t as many interesting shops to look at. But I definitely enjoyed it as a thing to see :D.

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We arrived at the airport and another, although not as pleasant, adventure awaited us. We found out that our flight actually hadn’t been delayed like we thought (it was the error of a confusing e-mail from the airline) and had already left. After much prayer and time spent talking to people higher and higher up the chain of command, the airline changed our tickets to the next earliest flight back to Seoul. Unfortunately, that flight didn’t leave until 8:00am, and we were supposed to start teaching at 9:00am. Alas. We got our work covered and then spent the next few hours (it was already 11pm) hanging out at the 24-hour McDonald’s, playing gin rummy (which I won, although Carissa says it was just beginner’s luck. I have played the game before, however…. ) and ordering something new every 45 minutes (I discovered that the McDonald’s had a delicious dip for their chicken nuggets- basil and cream cheese. Yum! I wanted to order ten of the dips and bring that bag with me). We also discovered that we could get blankets from the information center, so around 1:00am we each found a padded row of chairs and slept for awhile. It was surprisingly comfortable, and I got a solid four hours of sleep; blankets for the win. We got on our plane without a hitch, leaving at 8:40am, and were back in Seoul and teaching by 12:55pm.

Now, I want to go back again! Japan was a fantastic place to visit. The people were very nice and polite, the food delicious, and the streets clean. I enjoyed being surrounded by nature even in a city, breathing in the smells of earth and plants, resting in the peace and quiet of the temple gardens and grounds.  There was plenty of traditional Asian architecture to see and culture to experience, as well. Although the public transportation system is a little confusing and the taxis expensive, we still got where we needed relatively easily (by God’s grace). Overall, it was a great experience! (So great, in fact, that we are even looking into possibly going back to Japan in July.) This trip rekindled my taste for adventure and experiencing other cultures.  I am looking forward to visiting more countries soon. Thank you, Lord, for the gift of visiting Japan and experiencing Your provision and blessings!


A trip to the South: Busan

Last week was “golden week”: a four-day weekend as the result of combining Children’s Day and Buddha’s birthday. We haven’t had a break since February, so I was ready for a vacation! Becca and I took our first trip out of Seoul to explore more of Korea. We went down to Busan, Korea’s second-largest city. While Seoul is on the northern border, Busan is on the south-east tip of the peninsula. In our typical fashion, we ran around and saw all we could of what Busan had to offer. I’ll let the pictures tell the story.

Sunday, May 4th

We took the express train from Seoul to Busan: 300 km in under three hours. The train was incredibly smooth and fast – definitely the way to travel! It was nice to see the countryside as we went – outside of the city, Korean is mountainous and greengreengreen!

6:30 am: Heading out from Seoul Station on the KTX, coffee in hand.

We got into Busan around 9:30. Our plan had been to hop on a tour bus, but it turns out about 60 other people had the same idea. However, while waiting we met a Korean couple who translated for us. She gave me an English map, and then offered us a ride wherever we wanted to go. Within an hour of getting into the city, we were hitchhiking again ;).

First stop: UN memorial cemetery.

This is the only cemetery in the world dedicated to UN soldiers. It shows how grateful Korea is to the forces that defended them in the Korean war. They truly appreciate what the Western forces did.


This memorial is inscribed with the names of all the American who died in the Korean war. There are over 6,000 names – the most casualties after Korean deaths. In any memorials or displays I’ve seen, Korea always honors America right after Korea.

One of my favorite finds was this park full of flowers – houses, arches, hearts all covered in all manner of flowers. Korea excels in cute things.



We made it to the beach! :D :D :D Our hotel was less than a block from Gangalli beach.


 Our next stop was BIFF square. BIFF stands for “Busan International Film Festival” – a huge festival that (I hear) is well-attended by world-wide filmmakers. BIFF square is the hip, young-crowd hangout; sort of a Hollywood equivalent.


The Korean version of the Walk of Fame.


We hiked up to Yongdusan park above the square and found Busan Tower (not pictured). It’s smaller than Namsan, but we had to try it.



Couples put locks on the fence and throw away the key to symbolize their love. My question: what do the locks with combinations symbolize? (But seriously…)


This is Busan, from the top of the tower.


Lanterns everywhere! Definitely the best part of Buddha’s birthday.


She was creeping on my picture. That’s what I get for taking selfies.


I may or may not have bought fangirl-worthy postcards of the Lee Min Ho, the star of my favorite K-Drama.


The Gwangan bridge stretches across the bay at Gwangalli beach. It’s the most beautiful at night, when it’s illuminated by many lights. And it’s best observed from one of the second-story coffee shops, or from the beach with coffee in hand. We explored both options.

Monday, May 5th

Vacation calls for sleeping in, devotions on the beach and a late brunch. We started our sight-seeing sometime in the early afternoon ;).

We were heading to the Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, the only temple in Korea built by the sea. However, being the holiday weekend the bus was PACKED! It was the most packed I’ve ever seen. Of course, setbacks are just the beginnings of adventures when Becca and I travel. As soon as the bus left (we didn’t try to board), a woman our age approached us and asked, in a wonderful British accent, “Are you going to the temple? Would you like to share a taxi?” She was visiting Korea from Japan, where she is studying. She had a friend with her who spoke Korean and Japanese, but no English. So in this taxi, the Japenese girl was talking to the driver and us in Korean, to her London friend in Japanese, while we conversed in English. What an exchange of languages :).


Your favorite travelers ;)


The water, lanterns, cliffs, and temple were simply stunning. This was probably my favorite part of the the trip.



There were monks, trinkets, street food, lanterns.



I felt like I should be in a Mulan attraction at Disneyland.


Look at all the lanterns! Hundred upon thousands.


As we walked back from the temple, we ducked into a restaurant overlooking the ocean. The entire menu was in Korean, so I was brave and ordered something near the top. What do we get? Octopus. Becca only glared at me for a few minutes. Thankful, it was dead. And cooked.


Here goes… Actually, it wasn’t bad at all! The flavor was sweet and not “seafoody.” The texture was a little chewy, but no worse than squid. The mental difficulty is the hardest to get past, but I finished my bowl.


Becca is excited for the octopus! ;)

(By the way, I got her into various… stretching experiences on this trip. I don’t think she’s forgiven me for Monday)


A typical view of Busan: skyscrapers and mountains.


The Busan Cinema center is huge, and has the longest concave roof in the world (or something like that). It was quiet when we visited, but during the film festival it’s packed with filmakers and stars from all over Asia and the world.

We finished Monday with a trip to Spaland – our first jimjilbong experience. A Korean spa is a public bathhouse experience – separate men and women facilities with all kinds of different baths. I wanted to go, and Becca reluctantly came with… poor girl. Like I said, I don’t think she’s forgiven me. However, there are saunas and relaxation facilities in common areas, where you keep clothes on. ;)

Tuesday, May 6


I got up early on Tuesday and took a lovely walk along the coast.


We found this wonderful little brunch place on the second story. I had the french toast (how could I resist?) and Becca had quiche. It was the best breakfast we’ve had in Korea – worth hopping on the KTX for brunch some weekend! (And we may not be exaggerating…)



After brunch, we checked out of our hotel and stowed our bags at the station. We had tickets for a 10pm train, so we went out to Taejongdae – a national park full of greenery, cliffs, and seaside. We walked… and walked, and walked… did you know Korea is 70% mountainous? The views were worth it.




Look at that beautiful lady :).



The KTX brought us straight back to Seoul. It was a great vacation. It was nice to explore a new place, yet have have credit cards, transportation cards. and phones that work. Adventure without stress :).

My kinder girls missed me, and I missed them. All last week, all they wanted to do was hold my hand, give me kisses, and play with me. They are so sweet, and I am blessed to be teaching them. ♥

Next month we expand our international travel with a trip to Japan!

It’s Me!

I haven’t written in a long time (for which I have, indeed, been feeling guilty), but I’m not sure what to say even though I feel prompted to post something. How have I been? Well, I believe I am finally adjusted to teaching a class of eleven 3-4 year-olds. They have definitely found their way into my heart. Seeing them each day brings me so much joy- their spontaneous hugs, their cries of, “Rebecca Teacher!”, when they see me in the hallway, their eagerness to give and receive love. Teaching them is often challenging, and sometimes I don’t know if I will make it through the morning, but God is faithful to provide encouragement and strength to persevere. Just recently every kinder class performed a song for everyone. My Rabbit class was adorable! If I can figure out how to convert the video file, I will post a video of the song they performed. We also celebrated Children’s Day at our school. The children played games, blew bubbles, made crafts, and ate yummy snacks. A magician even came to the school to put on a show. It was a fun day!

Here are some recent pictures:



Karen and Daniel

Karen and Daniel

School Field Trip to an Air and Space Museum

School Field Trip to an Air and Space Museum

Children's Day Costumes

Children’s Day Costumes








Queen Elsa (a.k.a. Ah-in)

Queen Elsa (a.k.a. Ah-in)

My Sweet Karen :)

My Sweet Karen :)

Lantern Festival

Lantern Festival

Our Co-worker, Audrey

Our Co-worker, Audrey















Ladies in Hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) at the Lantern Festival

Ladies in Hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) at the Lantern Festival


At the Palace

At the Palace

In the Palace Courtyard

In the Palace Courtyard

In Gangnam (if you hadn't noticed ;) )

In Gangnam (if you hadn’t noticed ;) )


Carissa and I are also planning more adventures soon. This weekend we are going down to the southern part of Korea to a ocean-side city called Busan. We are taking a train through the countryside and then spending three days relaxing on the beach. We are both excited to get out of Seoul for a bit! About a month later, Lord willing, we are heading to Japan! We will be spending time in Osaka and Kyoto. It will only be a three day trip, but I am looking forward to seeing Japan, even for a short time! I am ready to be on a plane, bound for something new and exciting.

How have I been? In many ways, even I don’t know. God has been sanctifying me and growing me in many ways, ways I could not have foreseen. I am learning more about God and myself. It isn’t always pleasant, but I am thankful for His deep love that is working in my life. I have struggled to have joy and contentment at many times recently, but I am also thankful to be here in Korea! So many opportunities. So many things to learn.



P.S. Sorry for the strange photo formatting. I was tired and didn’t have the energy to figure out how to fix it :)

The consistency of my posts since Christmas has been, in a word, dreadful. Or deplorable. Or, personally, disappointing.

I was trying to figure out why I haven’t felt the need to blog. I’m still having adventures and exploring the city. I still want to share my experiences. I still love to write.

I guess I hit a point where this living in Korea thing has stopped feeling like a strange adventure – it’s now my life.

Don’t get me wrong. It’s a pretty good life. When I look from a 3rd-person perspective, I’m blown away that I get to live this life. I get to have my own place in a big city, meaningful work, a best friend to run around the city and explore new countries with. I get to go to movies on the weekends and nearby Asian countries on my breaks. Cool, huh?

So I’m going to keep writing, and do my best to keep sharing what my life looks like. Whenever I go somewhere new, I tend to plan all the details of how to get there and wing it once I show up. Rebecca and I joke that we always have ended up where we wanted to go, but not necessarily in the most direct path. My life is like that. I know where I’m going; I don’t know what the path looks like. It’s full of bumps along the way. But although I don’t know what’s coming, I think I like it better this way. I hope you enjoy the journey, too – ’cause the best part of my travels are always the people that I meet, the ones by my side, and the ones rooting for me from afar.


First up: a little bit of what life looks like. Life is the life of a single girl, working long hours during the week. Some nights I’m involved in Bible study, meeting with some Korean friends, and studying Korean (by the way, I’m texting basic conversations in Korean. Google translate is a huge help here, and I’m still very hesitant to speak it Korean. But it’s a start :D). Some nights are spent watching How I Met Your Mother while roasting marshmallows on a chopstick with chocolate chips. And here is how my nights most recently have been spent:


Take-out and K-drama

First of all, look at that take-out! This is how it’s done in Korea: Kimchi stew, sticky white rice (always), and 7 different sides – everything from spinich to bean sprouts to tofu, and some seafood fish that still aren’t my favorite. All for less than $5. Korean food is phenomenal.

And yes, K-drama. I started watching a show called, in English, “The Heirs.” In a nutshell, it follows the super-rich highschool students of Korea as they try to establish relationships with their friends, family and significant others in the high-powered world of Korean business. Most of the 20+ hours of this drama follow the relationship of Kim Tan, the illegitimate second son of a corporate super-power, with Cha Eun Sung, the hard-working daughter of a housekeeper. Anyways, I’ve been staying up WAY too late. Is it cheesy? Yes. But the show is incredibly honest and clean – it makes me wonder just how used to trashy innuendos I’ve gotten used to on prime time.

Plus, I get to practice my Korean ;).

A picture’s worth a thousand words, so the rest of my adventures can be best told visually:


Life in Seoul

This is Dain – one of the girls I teach. She is the cutest thing.


We finally tried one of the ice treats that are coming back now that the weather is warm. I’m sure I’ll be enjoying more as the summer comes on. We were killing time in a cafe as we waited for our movie. Cafe’s are great for meeting people, spending time or even napping. Plus, there are three on every street corner.


I was so stoked to find this – a little taste of America! Mmmmm… fries :D



April 26th – Jongo, Seoul – Lantern Festival in honor of Buddha’s Birthday

Hundreds of lanterns, the rustle of Hanbok, and a beautiful spring evening.


Two lovely ladies at the Lantern Festival: Jongno, Seoul


This dragon really spit fire!



Easter Sunday – Gyeongbokgung Palace

Our church had a joint Easter service in the evening, so Rebecca and I spent the afternoon finally visiting the Gyeongbok Palace. Gyeongbok is the biggest palace in Seoul, with many buildings, museums and gardens. The grounds are extensive. It was a beautiful place to spend a celebratory Easter.

I'm so glad I live in a city with mountains!

Mountains make my heart jump – and Korea has some amazing mountains.

Look at this lovely lady


On a street car replicate from turn-of-the-century Korea


Look at that roof! It’s hand-painted.


As I watched, this little girl ducked under the rope and wandered around the cordoned-off palace, before her dad could catch her :)

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Selfies – friends even in the cheesiest moments.


Seoul: the old and the new



Late March – Cherry Blossoms in Namsan and Yeouido

The cherry blossoms were breathtaking! And it’s not just the cherry blossoms – every bush and tree burst into color within a week. I have never seen anything more enchanting than a Korean spring. The pictures don’t do it justice, but perhaps they can give a taste.

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I took a Sunday afternoon to hike up Namsan, the mountain in the heart of Seoul.


As I walked, there were some older Korean adjummas and adjussies wearing their Hanbok and dancing.


Namsan Tower


I took the cable car back down the mountain. There’s Seoul – I forget how mountainous Korea is when I don’t get out of the concrete jungle.

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I hope you all are enjoying spring weather and your own lives wherever you are. Every life feels ordinary to the one living it – but every life is extraordinary. Live it to the full.

Here’s to more adventures and better consistency,


A glimpse into my new classroom

Hello everyone!

I thought I’d give you all a quick update on my week. Basically, it was like this:


So last week I graduated my first class. My four kindergarten kiddos were all dressed in their caps and gowns and got their diplomas. I almost cried the last day I walked out of the classroom, knowing I would never again spend a day answering their questions about France or Beethoven or albino animals; I wouldn’t be harassed for stories ranging from princesses to Frankenstein; I wouldn’t be begged to sing the Frozen soundtrack. Most of all, I’ll never again see Elena, the little author after my own heart; Sherya, the only 7-year-old I’ve ever met who will ask “please” before getting up for a pencil; Reina, who never fails to have a smile and a laugh and sticks out her tongue at me; or Ian, the boy who loves princesses and Greek mythology, with a head full of facts and emotions he doesn’t understand.

I love those kids. They will always be my first class.

I thought I was getting this teaching thing down. My classes were all going well; I was enjoying myself during the day; I could get all my work done within my work hours and have my evenings and weekends to myself. I knew the new school year was coming, but when you graduate kids on Friday and face orientation the next Monday, well, it kind of feels like not a big deal.

Hence, this week blindsided me.

New classroom. New classes. New co-teacher. New foreign teachers.

My kindergarten class is now seven 4/5 year-old girls, who speak little-to-no English. It’s a world of difference. Whereas my last class would beg to finish their writing assignments during their breaks, I can only keep these girls’ attention for 10 min at a time. That is, if I’m lucky enough to get it at all. Much of the time they just stare at me as if I’m, I don’t know, a foreigner? Why should they listen to these strange syllables coming out of the white girl’s mouth?

It’s a total re-planning of my teaching methods. I feel like I’m back at day one. Puppets, songs and clapping have all come in handy. And Frozen. Always Frozen. Lots of Frozen. I’ll be singing those songs eternally.

Of course, mentioning Frozen brings a smile to me as I remember the good parts of this past week. Have you ever watched a group of tiny Korean girls sing Let it Go? Just try to be stressed as they re-enact Elsa throwing off her crown and stepping into the sunlight. Or how about when they tug you down to their level so they can put a yellow bridge from a building set carefully into your hair as a crown and call you “Elsa.” Or my favorite – when one of they younger students in my class was jabbering to my co-teacher, who tells me that she’s talking about how much she loves me. Then she comes over and gives me a sweet wet kiss on the cheek. Okay, teaching these babies has it’s benefits. Just pray for my sanity.

Aside from kindergarten, I also teach two back-to-back classes of 1st grade. First graders are so cute! Bright-eyed and eager to please, teacher’s approval or displeasure is really all that is needed to motivate or manage these kids. They’re old enough to communicate well and listen but young enough to cry if they misbehave. They love telling me about what a great time they had in Elementary school.

After 1st grade, I teach classes to 6th-graders on Monday and Friday, and 5th-graders on Wednesday. I’m definitely adjusting to teaching the older classes, especially 6th grade. I just don’t understand them yet. They talk kinda like real people, but really, they’re still kids. I’m working on motivation and management.

Because of all these changes, I’ve been staying late and going in early every day this week. My co-teacher has left at 10:30 and come at 7:30 every day, and last weekend she literally slept at the school. This is the price paid for such a ridiculous turn-around schedule for the new school year. I wish I had been more prepared, but then, there was no time to prepare. It’s just another chance for me to practice flexibility, adaptability, and patience. In Korea, things tend to happen fast. No palaces or war museums this weekend – I even skipped out on Bible study and Korean class! I let myself get too stressed out and was rewarded with a cold. Oh well. Pray for healing and that I would look on these changes not with resentment or stress, but give thanks for the challenges and blessings God places before me. Pray that I would not compare myself to others or strive for perfection, but have my eyes firmly fixed on Christ – the strength He gives, the specific things He asks of me each day, and the people He wants me to love each moment. And pray that my co-worker lets up on this pressure and actually gets some rest.

More adventures will come in the future – the weather’s getting warmer and soon they’ll be cherry blossoms, hiking and exploring. For now, anyong-hi kyesayo!